Ama Dablam 2022 Expedition
Round Two
Wednesday 2nd November
Today it was great to see Mike back at basecamp joining us for Lunch, Mike as some of you will know got to camp 1 and felt a little unwell so we decided it was best to descend for a few days, so fast forward to, tea houses, hospital visits, helicopters and an unhealthy interest in Whitesnake lyrics.
Mike is getting back to the mountain and taking advantage of the next weather window.
Best of luck Mike, we’ll be watching you.
Summit Success
Sunday 30th October
A quick update for now but Pete Brittleton and Paul Cornforth have successfully summited Ama Dablam and are returning to basecamp. All involved are safe and in good health. More news when they have rested up.
Friday 28th October
Well folks just a short blog today as we are panning to leave base camp and make our way back up onto the mountain. We have our sights set on trying to get a summit attempt under our belts if all of the variables line up.
We hope to bring you some great summit success news in the next few days but as we always say, success is safely returning to basecamp.
Coffee time
Tuesday 25th October
We’ve worked hard for this mini break…….
As the team have worked rather hard over the past couple of days, we’ve climbed to camp 1 twice, covering the height of Kilimanjaro twice, stashed gear and had acclimatisation treks up and around the Khumbu. All of which means we in a really strong position to get back onto the mountain and attack that summit when the times is right.
Having stashed food, stoves, equipment and all sort of necessary gear we have pleasure in trekking back down to Tyangboche and having a couple of relaxing days in a tea house where we can recuperate and regenerate before returning to the mountain.
To some, this may seem as though we are going backwards BUT let me assure you that strategic retreats are very much part of a successful expedition. We have a rather energetic weather window sneaking up on us with high winds for which being in the safety of a tea house is far better than the being in a tent and as we planned for many extra days for this weather eventuality we have this in our pocket.
Never a bad decision
Monday 24th October
Having had a good couple of days and nights rest it was that inevitable time where as a team we decide whether to rotate on the mountain or stay at camp another day. “Rotations” or “Working the mountain” as the mountaineers amongst you will know means we carry a load up to the next camp and either stash it there or sleep the night to assist in our acclimatisation. As you would expect this decision is never taken lightly and we gather every bit of information to hand to make the right decision for US, and only US.
This starts with getting the latest and most accurate weather forecast for the days whilst we are away from the luxury of base camp, this is sent from the UK, coupled with the local information we can get. This enables us to make sure that the weather will not be a factor to think about whilst working.
Almost as importantly as the weather we ensure ALL of the team are happy with the decision and feel comfortable with the plan, location and aim of the rotation.
As the leader I have the last say in what is or is not planned for the rotation BUT as an amazing leader I ensure its always a team discussion so no surprises come up on the day.
Today, we set off nice and early in the hope we could get up to camp 1 at about 5900m just nestled in the snow line. Taking it much slower that our trekking pace we made some good progress, clearly the altitude is starting to affect us all, breathing is that much harder and we can feel that cheeky little “Khumbu Cough” raising its head. This is the usual altitude cough most mountaineers accept is going to happen, breathing in such cold dry air irritates your lungs and throat leading onto a cough.
We have quick break half way up to the camp and you can see how steep Ama Dablam is, its certainly no easy trek of a peak.
Slowly, slowly we trekked on with all of the team doing so well in getting just below camp 1 at this point we have a chat about camping at camp 1 and decide that 1 of the team will stay with our amazing Sherpa and sleep at camp 1 and the others will descend to get another nights sleep at base camp which is always a strong move as “climbing high, sleeping low” is the mantra of all high altitude mountaineers.
I’m sure the lure of Pringles, tea, chocolate and thick mattresses had nothing to do with the team decision…..
You sexy thang…
Wednesday 19th October
Well hello there!…..The name is Brittleton, Pete Brittleton
Today we had the pleasure in meeting the most iconic, the most sexy, the most captivating and the most daunting of mistresses, no not Miss Whiplash but Ama Dablam herself.
After a slow climb out of Tyangboche and its greenery the environment noticeably changes. We sneak into more mountainous terrain with the occasional peak of snow and ice. We follow the river all the way up the valley, The river Khola.
We stopped at Pangboche, 4000m for some lunch to get our breath back and to admire the surroundings, its usually here that the day trekkers or hikers disappear and are replaced by the designer wear of the seasoned mountaineer. The slightly more wind swept, sun burnt and bedraggled look of the mountaineer. Folk who walk this way tend to be heading to Ama Dablam now as the Everest path veers off to the west.
At this height we all start to feel the altitude, each breath takes that much longer to recover from, any exercise takes that much longer to do and everything is just “heavy” kinda like a Sunday morning after a good Saturday night!
We cross a rather heavy flowing river and make our way up a eerie looking forested area, quite out of place but a pleasant shelter from the sun. Then its a slow and steady climb past the final tea house where, well, hmmmm the not so elite mountaineers stay and up to the camp site that we will call home for the next 3 weeks or so.
Now back in the UK Paul and I spend many phone calls with Nepal, Pakistan and further afield to create relationships with in-country support. And it is now, at this point where the support really does come into its own. 8K and in particular Lakpa is at the very top of the tree when it comes to Nepalese support, now don’t get me wrong its still bloody hard putting an international expedition together there are so many elements that need consideration BUT to know that Lakpa is at the helm with his Sherpa support and basecamp logistics really makes our work in the UK much easier. Some of you that read our blog from Pakistan will remember his name and how he was helpful out there, well it was there in 2019 that a friendship was formed and we have worked together ever since.
So reflecting this hard work, mainly the amazing mountaineer Paul Etheridge’s hard work back in the UK we arrive at base camp to just plain awesomeness…..Personal tents the size of a Royal Palace, a mattress as thick as our Tory government and artificial grass and a dressing area so big we may well be hosting drinks parties there.
On walking into the mess tent we are greeted with Pringles, salted nuts and tea all sorts of tea. We are clearly a BIG DEAL here in Nepal and quite rightly so
Life at 4500m has never felt so good
Bouncing along to Tyangboche
Tuesday 18th October
The weather gods have really played ball with us today.
From start to finish the weather has been amazing, cool enough to keep the sweat beads from forming but warm enough to keep us going its been a really great day.
We set off nice an early after breakfast and headed off initially downwards but then onto the quite possibly longest mountain track ever. Passing the inevitable Yaks laden with supplies and porters all scurrying along, I’m not sure their method of moving is good for you or indeed productive BUT they seem to manage everything…..One minute they are speeding past you the next they are sitting down having a break and usually a cigarette at the same time as catching their breath. But then off they go again sprinting, resting, springing, resting, I wonder if Mr Aesop had visited Nepal prior to writing his fable?
Some say mermaids lure sailors in, how true this is we really cant say, but what we can say is that Ama Dablam in the sun is the most tempting of mistresses, for which we have to really compose ourselves – Reminding me of my experience in Spearmint Rhino in the 90’s!!!
We arrive in Tyangboche and make our way to the very best tea house in the village, the views are simply stunning and the food has been really superb. The hospitality we have received from all of the Nepalese and those involved with our expedition has been amazing, we really have been able to prepare for the enormity of Ama Dablam in the best possible way.
Base camp here we come.
Monday 17th October
So after our not so early night we set off bright as a button towards Namche Bazaar.
The trek started off relatively easy along narrow paths with almost rain forest like plants and shrubs, they drape over the paths and you be forgiven if you thought this was south America rather than Nepal. The day soon warmed up and although the forecast was rain we enjoyed a full days trekking in the glorious sun shine – even wearing T’shirts.
Stopping for lunch and coffee along the way we enjoyed sharing stories with those returning from a very wet and really quite miserable trek up the Everest Base camp, they had the past 14 days in solid rain, mud and slides, we obviously sympathised but quietly and really quite easily we gloated that we had designed this expedition with the contingencies to overcome such weather.
About 2 hrs before Namche we have a slow and steady plod up the steps and along one of the highest tin bridges in Nepal, we stop for the inevitable photo but soon get a sprint on when we see yaks approaching in the other direction…..not wanting a game of ‘chicken’ 200m up on a Nepalese tin bridge we thankfully out sprint them, just!
On turning the corner having walked up some nice steady wide paths we see the oasis which is Namche Bazaar, the physical home to many of the Sherpas community that serve these mountains and the spiritual home of every mountaineer to have set foot in this vast playground. Since our last visit here it has sadly become more and more commercialised and westernised, this of course is inevitable and I’m sure much needed for the market traders and local folk who rely on the passing trade of tourists and their dollar, BUT for us who didn’t experience the founding years of the 1940/50/60’s of mountaineering we would like to see, hear and smell what it would have been liked for our forefathers trailblazing these hills.
But sadly we are met with snooker halls, yes snooker halls with full size tables, bakeries, coffee shops and full WIFI everywhere.
Although we had a good trek in, we waste no time in heading up to the famous Everest View Hotel about 2km and 400m higher than Namche, this is the first view of our prize the amazingly sexy, slender beautifully proportioned Ama Dablam sitting majestically to our east, almost luring us over to her. Oh yes….. and you can see that bloody ugly lump called Everest.
We sit and watch the tourists and trekkers passing us by, we watch everyone focussing on Everest and so very few notice the beauty of Ama Dablam. A few coffees and photos later we take a steady walk back to our tea house where we have a great dinner and tea before bed. Tomorrow depending on our heads and acclimatisation we will go for a walk around the bowl or head out to Dingboche.
Arghhhh the joys of altitude
Sunday 16th October
Super lucky or super prepared…….
Today I met the team of the flight from the UK, surprisingly fresh faced they bounded of the flight with there expedition bags with huge smiles and fresh sense of adventure.
We travelled back the hotel in Tamel and settled in for the usual pre expedition briefing.
- Kit check
- Insurance check
- Medical check
Then off for food and beer at the amazing “Little Buddha”
For us, we had a really refined evening and quite and early night as we had a crazy early start to get to the flight to Lukla, which is any social media posts were to be believed was to be a 3 day wait and a noisy airport.
But as luck would have it, or as we had planned this for months were able to jump on to the very first flight heading to Lukla, passing lots of really upset passengers who had waited days for their flights. On landing in Lukla we happily and really rather big headedly glided past the several hundred patently waiting trekkers who were desperate to get out of Lukla back to the relative luxury of Kathmandu.
Feeling super fit we got trekking up to Phakding straight away which was a really rather nice 2 hours mostly down hill which made us think we wee kinda going backwards rather than climbing up!
Phakding is a super little village of 1 narrow street with a few coffee shops and the usual tea houses that double as hotels/hostels and B&B’s. From our last visit here WIFI is no longer the draw to which tea house you go to but rather what brand of coffee is being served or the selection of beer! My how things have changed.
Early night for us as we have the long stomp to Namche tomorrow
Friday 14th October
So as many of the comments on our posts seem to suggest I am just on a lazy holiday I thought I’d share with you why we arrive earlier than out clients and what we get up to in that 24hrs before they arrive.
On arriving into the Kathmandu madness I make my way from the airport to the hotel. This is about a 30min CRAZY drive in a taxi from the 1950’s occasionally they have doors, and if you’re very lucky all 4 wheel are inflated (Usually only if it is the start of their shift).
On arriving at the hotel we do our “Accommodation checks” to ensure it is good enough for our clients and everything is up to scratch. Depending on the hour or arrival we can catch a few hours sleep as it may well have been 48hrs since we slept, or we get started on the essential buys in Thamel.
Thamel is an amazing area within Kathmandu where you can buy ANYTHING literally anything from a set of brass taps through to a Chinese imported down suit stuffed with…..yak wool!
We have a list of medical items to top up the first aid kit, we buy luxury items for lazy days at basecamp and essential permits and travel confirmation.
Unlike in previous years we are no longer flying from Kathmandu to Lukla we are jumping on a bus to Ramechhap, just east of Kathmandu so this takes a bit or sorting and tickets to purchase. We confirm timings and ensure we have a contingency in case the inevitable weather pulls in and the flights get cancelled. In this case we jump of 4×4 jeeps and get higher up into the mountains and have a days trek into Lukla, not the best start to the trek BUT good training for the legs and lungs.
We then make our way to the ministry of mountaineering to check that permits and the legal aspects of the climb is completed, this can take 20mins or up to 3hrs, today it took 3hrs as I’m sure they just like to practice their English………NB, note for he future I must practice my English!
Time for lunch/breakfast/evening meal – depending on the time my body thinks it is. Usually a good thick steak or pizza at Fire and Ice or a practice Dal Baht getting my stomach used to this Nepalese staple.
We confirm the arrival times of the clients with our UK based support and get some much needed weather forecasts and mountain news, usually from friends or Sherpa actually in the mountain, sadly today we have a very Marti Pellow kinda report, Wet Wet Wet, the monsoon season has lasted much longer than anticipated with rain and snow falling almost every day. The higher mountains and very much loaded with snow and the lower tracks are landslide prone, so its looking a lot like hard work!
Now as it is getting darker I retreat into the hotel and start compile the necessary details for our Y.E.S project donation. This year we are working with our very good friends at 8K expeditions who have assisted us in donating our 5% of expedition fees to a local School in Namche Bazaar, the spiritual home of many Sherpa and adopted home of many a pioneering mountaineer. We will visit here on our trek in and see what our donation will mean to them.
Almost bed time, time to phone home and check up on family and loved ones.
Time to update the blog
Time to write up the expedition journal
Time to complete incident journal
Bed……Some bloody holiday!
Wednesday 12th October
Well its a super early start for the team here at Impact Ascents 01:30am, whilst most of you were sleeping away we were setting off for Manchester airport and starting another epic adventure.
This Autumn, in fact today….we are off to Nepal to lead an awesome group of folks up and super technical mountain Ama Dablam.
Ama Dablam is a real treat for any mountaineer sitting majestically at 6812m it holds your eye throughout the trek into its base camp as it is so ”sexy” as far as mountains go!
The expedition is being led by our very own Pete Brittleton who has recently returned from Pakistan having gained the British record in summiting Broad Peak and K2 in the same season. Pete will be leading the team up through the Khumbu Valley into the heart of Nepalese culture and climbing.
We will be updating the blog as and when communication lines are open and will try yo give you a sample of what to expect if you join one of our expeditions.